Memories of Jodhpur

 Memories of Jodhpur 

We took the early morning flight from Jaipur  to Jodhpur.  Our driver, who had driven there overnight, met us at the airport.  Also present was a representative from Travelscope as was the case with each new city that we arrived in. On our drive to the hotel, they regaled us with the history of and stories about their city.  Their pride and passion for their home was not lost on us.  Having somebody from the city introduce us to it was a really nice touch.  Jodhpur exceeded our wildest expectations and our stay there was our happiest.  Dubbed, the blue city, Jodhpur’s history is unique in that even the houses of the caste segregated quarters were in the past, painted in different colours so the rulers could tell them apart.  The Brahmin blue houses are still visible from a perch atop the magnificent Mehrangarh (“M”) Fort.  But I am getting ahead of myself!  Our accommodation was at the heart of the city in a magical hotel called Raas Jodhpur.  Our room had large French doors which opened into a little private enclosed patio facing the magnificent M Fort.  This boutique hotel at the base of the fort was luxurious with warm staff, a pool and charming restaurant with indoor/outdoor dining.  

That first evening, our city guide took us for a walk through the streets and markets.  Just across from the hotel we stopped at a magnificent step-well, a unique feature of this desert state.  These step-wells built several centuries ago are square or rectangular and the size of swimming pools.  They are at least 100 feet deep and have steps.  In the past, women would descend those steps to fetch water from them.  They could rest in the landings before ascending to the top.  There are several of these throughout the state and they are architectural marvels.  At this step well, a musician dressed in traditional attire and sporting a bright red turban, sat playing the archaic but melodic ravanahatha, providing the perfect ambience.  We  passed by little shops marvelling at the amount of inventory crammed into them, an atmosphere of commerce and cheer, a perfect example of order in chaos.  As we walked through arches and crumbling architecture from a glorious past of city squares and grand homes, we came upon clusters of shops selling similar wares and commercial activity of all forms catering to every income level.  The Tamil saying “you can buy everything other than your parents” came to mind there.  Having enjoyed a sampling of this shoppers’ heaven, but quiet-seekers’ hell, we returned to our rooms to gear up for our Christmas Eve dinner.  

We made our way up narrow winding, steep, stone stairs to the terrace bar around 6:30 p.m. I had worn sensible shoes, thank god!  We were the first to arrive and were treated to complimentary glasses of our liquor of choice and a glass of champagne.  Lots of o’devours made their rounds and we foolishly ate them leaving little room for dinner.  I felt uncomfortable that the waiters had to balance heavy trays several times up those stairs and made a mental note to tip them well at the end of our stay.  Dinner was a choice between 2 set menus one Indian and another Western.  This paled in comparison with the celebratory Christmas Eve dinner two years ago in Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka, where we were tempted with  stations upon stations of food and desserts reminiscent of a colonial past where no expense was spared to hail the birthday of Christ.  Here at Raas Jodhpur, the celebrations were elegant, muted,  somewhat underwhelming, but, maybe, better for our soul?  We both had the soup and salad but did not do justice to the main and dessert and let’s just say there were a couple of happy dogs around the step-well outside, who got to enjoy some of our Christmas delights!   We were the first to leave the party, eager for sleep in our comfortable beds.  

At 8:30 the next morning, we left for the M Fort.  Our plan was to beat the crowd.  This Fort is magnificent having been built over several centuries and has remained reasonably well preserved.  The highlights were the miniature art paintings, the palanquins, and the exquisite decor in the private and public chambers of royalty.  So much thought had been put into securing these palace forts from enemies and marauders.  With lots of photographs clicked to admire this marvellous fort’s unique attributes at leisure, we left for our next stop, a memorial for the Rajput King Jaisingh II built by his loving wife.  He was and still is revered as a saintly person.  He was also ahead of his time in that he did not want his wife to self emolate upon his death, as was custom then.  After his death, she ordered her son to build him a monument to immortalize her love for and devotion of him.  This memorial in marble is breathtaking.  After paying our respects to the late king, we paid homage to a shoppers’ haven.  This shop with its antique warehouse as a front, sold everything imaginable!  It burnt a hole in our pockets, as I indulged in designer jackets, shawls, blankets and even a saree.   All were made from natural fibres and mostly hand made.  Some purchases were definitely impulsive buys, but we left the store quite happy with our loot:). We then stopped at the most famous samosa shop in the city and were treated by our guide  to samosas, kachoris and, at its most decadent, lassi which was creamy, saffron scented and sweet.  We returned to rest and get over our food coma.  

Our guide took us in the evening to a section of town with narrow alleys where centuries’ old homes maintained the charm of yesteryear!  And we were in the “blue” quarter where Brahmin families continue to live.  A throwback to an ancient era, time stood still here except for the sound of the TV in some homes.  A number of homes were locked - but most had a sign in Hindi outside that translated to “so and so family welcomes you..”.  We walked back through narrow alleys of shops selling wedding clothes, turbans and all kinds of paraphernalia.  No wonder cities of Rajasthan are the most popular for big fat Indian destination weddings.  These folks have everything to pull off a grand and flashy affair!  Smart move by this state to ensure revenue from tourism and events!  We had a lovely breakfast at the Raas, freshly made chillas (like dosa but made with daal), yummy poha and filter coffee.  I stopped at the kachori shop for some samosas, kachoris and lassi for the road before heading to Narlai, enroute a handmade cotton rug store where I picked one up from an incredible array of designs.  Yes, indulgence was my middle name!  Alas we did no more shopping after this!