Utta and I just got back from a memorable trip to Cairo. As we always carry around baggage of past impressions with us, I could not but exclaim how it was so much like Indian cities, Mumbai and Chennai rolled into one. The sunshine, greenery, palms and old architecture very much like Chennai and burbs, and the pervasive tall and mid sized flats with clothes drying in the balconies very much Mumbai. Like in every developing country there is huge disparity between rich and poor, the palatial and artistically consrtucted residences of the former ample proof of this. You can almost picture elegant parties on those lawns. This brings me to the most endearing aspect of Cairo - life and living. There is ample evidence of it everywhere - from young nubile couples in clandestine encounters by the Nile, to funerals in the cemetries, children playing in the dirt as their parents peddled wares in the crowded back alley souks, men balancing trays of tea and negotiating the pressing crowds in all places of commerce, to the window shoppers on Roxy Square, to the flirtatious young men sitting around street corners serenading the beautiful young women walking down that street. It is a far cry from a tourist trap, the magnificent ancient pyramids and mosques with courtyards the size of football fields, almost incidental. In fact, when we were in Old Cairo, it came up to their noon prayer time and the mosques opened to welcome the worshippers, keeping the non Muslims out. The trip to the Giza Pyramids and Sphinx was quite like a drive to the Shore Temples of Mammalapuram, smack in the centre of a crowded town, where people went about their lives apparently untroubled by the five thousand year history of one of the world's greatest wonders, in their backyard.
Egypt is an Islamic country and there is evidence of it everywhere. However, predating the arrival of the Arabs over the last two millenia Egypt experienced Greco Roman influences with the Ptolemic period and before that the rich dynastic tradition of the Pharaoh kingdoms going back to 3000 BC. Legend has it that Cairo is the birthplace of Judaism, the location of the Ben Ezra synagogue in Cairo, the place where a Pharaoh's wife found Moses after he had crossed the Red Sea. The synagogue is surrounded by the Babylon fortress and a hanging church. Among other firsts, Egypt boasts the first monastery dating back to 300 AD under the Coptics a sect of Christians who flourish to this day, their art testament to their history, the blending of pagan traditions and expressive Christianity. Cairo is a holy place with confluence of religions. More recently, Egypt was also a French colony and there is some of that influence evident in the people and the food.
In short, a veritable pot pourrie of eastern and present day european cultures, Egypt is a country with beautiful people, varied cuisines and diverse architecture. The language, however, is predominantly Arabic, with a few French speakers. English is practically non existent.
Whats a trip to Egypt without a pilgrimage to the pyramids. Remarkable structures. Particularly memorable was my 10 metre climb into one funerary chamber, down a narrow passage. The tombs are equally astounding and the preoccupation with death, dying and tomb architecture quite fascinating. King Tut knew not just how to live and but also how to die so elaborate were his plans for the afterlife.
The Nile, the only enduring witness to these thousands of years of history, tamed in recent times with the Aswan dam, has influenced every aspect of life in this historic place as is evident from the art and elaborate sailboats in the tomb architecture. Today, she is there a benevolent and bountiful goddess in the middle of the desert.
Utta and I engaged gap toothed Nabil, our taxi driver to take us around. In his 20 year old Peugeot and with his broken English, he showed us a good time, coming to see us off the day we were leaving. Amidst all those crooks who prey on tourists, we found a gem.
It was wonderful to hang out with an adult daughter sipping tea in cafes, experimenting with the sheesha (water pipes), haggling at the Khan Al Khalili markets and trying out different cuisines at the restaurants. I have wonderful memories and a fresher perspective on the history of our world and our present state of being.
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