Had the obligatory pedicure at the nearby salon. I was tempted to have a facial but the steamer would not work. I realized this was the Universe's comment on the absurdity of my impulse given how much I was sweating! I love chatting up the girls who work hard on middle aged women's bodies, cajoling them with creams, potions, wax and sheer physical effort, to make us more presentable. I am always tickled when they pull out their range of skin lightening products and speak glowingly of the bright skin tone which will be our lot. I politely refuse, petrified of the harmful chemicals that would mutate my skin cells to make them lighter. India's fascination with light skin has spawned a multibillion dollar industry. The young girl who worked hard on my feet was from Bhutan. I searched in the deep recesses of my brain to come up with its capital city and asked if she was from Timpu? She was suitably impressed and answered in the affirmative. I was fascinated by it's status as the country with the highest levels of happiness. I had watched a movie taken by a Rinpoche called "Waiting for Heaven" set in its lush mountainous terrain. in the "magic realism" genre. There was a gentle strength and sincerity to this girl who had travelled far for her livelihood. She liked Chennai she said - heat and all. I tipped her handsomely and said I would be back before I left. Later in the evening, bearing sweets I visited 4 uncles and aunts. Their average age 85 years - 4 out of 5 live by themselves, and 2 do not even have outside help. I was happy to see them all healthy, sharp, mobile and more or less ailment free. It has to do, I am sure, with the weather, their diet and disciplined lives without any excesses.
Day 3
Went by in a blur. I decided to skip lunch as part of my observance of a fast. Not a great idea since I was hungry and tired from the 43 C temperature sapping me of what little energy I had. There was a sale of sarees at the temple and a mad rush to buy them. These had adorned the goddess just once and were now available at throwaway prices. Not to be outdone, my mom and I picked up three. Later that evening Suku and I had dinner with friends we have known all our lives. Our generous hosts tickled our palates with pickles from mangoes and limes grown in their lush garden, besides cooking up a variety of delicious mostly vegan eats- rice noodles with coconut, peas and coriander, steamed savoury rice cakes, veggies in coconut sauce and another in tomato sauce, pomegranate and peanut salad and rice with yoghurt, seasoned with mustard seeds and green chillies. For dessert we had frozen kulfi seasoned delicately with rose petals from their garden. Yum, especially following my day of fasting. I was now feasting. Nothing in moderation for me. Our conversation meandered until we ended up talking about what some amazing young folks are doing in India. One of our friends' kids has returned to Chennai after completing her PhD in Math from Columbia University in New York. She has since completed her post doc from the Math Science Institute here, has learnt to weave from local artisans, is learning to chant ancient Vedic mantras, all while working as a Math lecturer and teaching poor kids in the villages Math so they develop a love for it. Chennai is the heartland of all forms of art and culture and she has found her life's passion, to teach Math, in this place that she loves. How cool is that?! Another runs a popular online newspaper wholly financed through fundraising, on local issues that matter, simultaneously educating the public on electoral politics and encouraging civic engagement and activism. And on and on.
Day 4
I had my sister check out my teeth and took my niece out clothes shopping. We had coffee at a Starbucks. Yes there is one here!! It's odd how people, me included, will go for a brand in a city which prides itself on the quality of its world famous filter coffee. We were definitely not there for the coffee but for the Starbucks experience in our ancient city. The ambience is particularly unique since the city is still deliciously disconnected from the rest of all industrial advancement. So, sitting in a Starbucks cafe in Chennai is like stepping into the 21st Century while living in the 20th. Of course, a lot has changed with smart phones and Chennai's launch into the digital age. However, if you don't work here it still remains a throwback to a time long ago, where the thousand year old temples have throngs of ardent devotees, the street vendors and storefronts still ply their wares and time stretches at an infinity slow pace, punctuated by mealtimes when everything served is cooked from scratch! In the evening I checked out the local yoga studio, a testament to Chennai's growing modernity, to start classes soon. In the evening I helped prep veggies for an elaborate meal at home tomorrow! Bitter gourds, broad beans, cluster beans, banana tree bark, yams, sweet potatoes and cucumber for dishes which comprise 6 tastes (arusuvai) - sweet, sour, bitter, salty, astringent and pungent. Each has a function such as bringing joy (sweet), hydrating (salty), purifying blood (bitter), aiding digestion (astringent), purifying digestive tract (pungent) and stimulating hunger (sour). Our ancestors who brought Ayurveda to the world, had cracked the code on food as medicine, while not compromising taste and while actively engaging all our senses in the culinary experience. I will post the menu tomorrow!
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